Why I’m Swapping the Hangboard for the Force Board: My Journey Through Elbow Rehab
During my trip to Leonidio in March this year It happened again. A familiar sharp twinge on the inside of my elbow—the classic "Golfer’s Elbow" (Medial Epicondylitis). Whether it was a missed Toyota test or just over-enthusiasm at the gym, my body has sent a clear message: stop hanging.
For a climber, "rest" usually feels like losing progress. But this time, I’m not just sitting on the couch. I’ve decided to transition my entire finger training to the Force Board, and here is the science-backed reason why.
The Problem with Hanging
When you hang on a board with an injured elbow, you are dealing with eccentric and ballistic loading. Any slight slip or adjustment creates a "jerk" that further irritates the inflamed tendon. Physiotherapists often call this "uncontrolled loading."
The Solution: Controlled Isometrics
Research (e.g., from NCBI StatPearls and The Prehab Guys) shows that isometric holds (static tension) are the safest way to rebuild tendon capacity.
• Pain Relief: Static holds for 30–45 seconds have been shown to reduce tendon pain immediately by altering pain signaling to the brain.
• No-Hang Training: Using the Force Board allows me to stay on the ground. I can apply precise tension to my fingers without putting my full body weight (and the resulting leverage) on my injured elbow joint.
• Data-Driven Safety: With the Force Board, I’m not guessing. I can see exactly how many kilograms of force I’m pulling. If I feel pain at 30kg, I back off to 25kg. You can’t do that on a traditional hangboard.
My New Protocol
Until my elbow is 100% quiet, my routine looks like this:
1. Low-Intensity Holds: 5 sets of 30-second pulls at 50% of my max. This is purely for tendon health and blood flow.
2. Zero Hanging: No campusing, no heavy dead-hangs.
3. Progression Tracking: Using the Force Board app to ensure I’m slowly increasing the load without crossing the "pain threshold."
Injuries are a setback, but they are also an opportunity to master the tools we have. If I can’t climb hard right now, I’ll make sure my fingers are stronger than ever when I return.